In mid-May, members of Travel Bloggers Greece were invited on an unforgettable weekend in the mountain village of Ano Chora, located in the heart of Nafpaktia, Western Greece. This beautifully orchestrated experience, titled “Tour through the Paths of the Wild Orchid,” was organized by Aetoliki Development Company in collaboration with the non-profit AMKE “Parte ta Vouna.” It was more than just a weekend getaway; it was a soulful immersion into local stories, silence, and the stunning resilience of nature.
How to Get from Athens to Ano Chora
Our trip began on a Friday afternoon, and we travelled for about three hours before we reached the main town of Nafpaktos.
Hi, I’m Elena! Thanks for reading my blog. With over 20 years of experience in the hospitality and travel industry, I hold a Swiss Diploma in Hotel Management and a Master’s Degree in Hospitality & Tourism Leadership. As a Greece expert, I’ve spent years exploring the country in depth, uncovering its hidden gems and authentic experiences. I also worked for five years as a Destination Development Consultant for an American boutique travel agency, where I played a key role in developing Greece, Spain, and Portugal as travel destinations. My deep industry knowledge, hands-on experience, and passion for immersive travel ensure that every recommendation I share is trusted, insightful, and curated with expertise. I hope that you find my content useful, in case you have any questions please feel free to reach out. I’ll be happy to help you.
We drove west, crossing the engineering marvel of the Rio-Antirrio Bridge, which connects the Peloponnese to mainland Greece. From there, we followed a winding, scenic route for about an hour through the mountains, leading us to the serene village of Ano Chora.
The Wild Orchids of Ano Chora
Ano Chora is home to an extraordinary diversity of wild orchids, making it a paradise for botanists, photographers, and nature lovers. According to Professor Nikolaos Moustakas, from the Agricultural University of Athens, an expert in Soil Science with over 20 years of personal research into the orchids of his native village, there are 12 genera and 26 species of orchids recorded within just a 3-kilometer radius around Ano Chora. His ongoing studies, initially pursued as a personal passion project alongside his academic career, have helped map and document the rare biodiversity of this mountainous region. In Greece, there are about 193 types of orchids.
Professor Moustakas joined us on a walk to help us spot these rare beauties. He later gave a thorough presentation about the different species and their unique characteristics.
These orchids bloom across several months, typically beginning in March and continuing through August, depending on the species and seasonal conditions.
Some of the species that can be found in Ano Chora:
Transparency is important to us! This article contains some affiliate links, which means that if you make a purchase through these links, we may earn a small commission—at no extra cost to you. Your support helps us continue sharing in-depth travel guides, insider tips, and inspiring stories from around the world. Every click and purchase helps keep this website running, and for that, we are truly grateful. Thank you for being part of our journey!
- Ophrys helenae – With its cherry-red lip, it’s one of the most striking orchids, known for thriving in sunlight.
- Ophrys reinholdii – Features a bold, velvety texture and a pattern that resembles eyes, mimicking a bumblebee.
- Ophrys apifera – Also known as the bee orchid, it self-pollinates and prefers the shaded forest floor.
- Orchis mascula – Often found above 500 meters in altitude, especially in fir woods, with deep violet blooms.
- Orchis quadripunctata – Recognizable by the four dots on its labellum.
- Orchis spitzelii – Prefers shady areas beneath fir trees, delicate and elegant.
- Ophrys provincialis – A sun-loving species with a soft yellow tone, subtle and graceful.
- Himantoglossum caprinum – Known for its long, tongue-like labellum, blooming slightly later in the season.
- Neotinea maculata – Dense- flowered orchid, tiny creamy white flowers
- Ophrys zeusii – it was first described from Epirus (Greece) by Hirth in 2002
These orchids, protected under Greek law, are not to be picked or uprooted. Some, like those in the Ophrys genus, mimic female insects and release pheromones to attract male pollinators—a brilliant evolutionary adaptation.
Discovering Ano Chora
The town of Ano Chora is a postcard of mountain life—stone houses nestled among trees, quiet streets, a few traditional cafes, and a welcoming village square. What to experience here:
Agia Paraskevi Church – Built in 1918, it’s one of the larger churches in the area, standing gracefully above the cobbled streets.
The Karnavalos Bus—This historic bus once connected Ano and Kato Chora and was made famous in the 1979 British war film Escape to Athena.
The Folklore Museum – Housed in the village’s former school building, this museum is a treasury of local heritage. It is said that Saint Cosmas of Aetolia once taught here during his travels in the 18th century. A revered missionary and educator, Saint Cosmas established over 250 schools, churches, and charitable institutions in the region of Aetolia within just six years. He was also believed to possess the gift of prophecy.
Today, the museum walks visitors through the region’s past, from charcoal production and self-sufficient mountain life to the heartfelt traditions of bridal dowries and domestic craftsmanship.
After we visited the museum, we were treated to a warm cup of sahlep or salepi, a traditional drink that has long been associated with mountain winters and heartfelt gatherings. Historically made from the powdered tubers of wild orchids, sahlep was once believed to be a powerful tonic and even an aphrodisiac. The main ingredient, known for its starchy richness, was prized for its health benefits.
Today, due to the protected status of wild orchids in Greece, authentic sahlep is sourced from cultivated orchids, primarily from Turkey. Despite the change, the drink remains a cherished tradition in Greek mountain villages—creamy, spiced with cinnamon, and carrying with it a gentle sense of nostalgia. We also tried tiganites, fritters made with salepi and rolled in generous amounts of sugar.
The Enchanted Black Forest
Named for its towering fir trees that stretch skyward, the Enchanted Black Forest feels timeless. The firs, stripped of side branches as they race toward the sun, form a cathedral-like canopy.
While it seems ancient, the forest is only a few decades old—nature reclaiming space once used for charcoal production. One remarkable tree, said to have seven peaks, is wrapped in legend: locals believe a forest witch named Slava once lived there.
Several hiking trails wind through the forest, each offering its own unique perspective on the landscape. A favorite among visitors is the Path of the Deer, which leads directly through the heart of the Black Forest. It’s often paired with the Path of the Orchids, a relatively easy route perfect for orchid-spotting during the blooming season from March to August. Together, they form a scenic one-hour loop ideal for a relaxed yet rewarding walk. All trails are well-marked with color-coded signage and can be combined or extended depending on one’s pace and interest. The dense canopy above, soft forest floor underfoot, and occasional bursts of wildflower color make this one of the most enchanting hikes in the region.
Kravara Park: Trails Through Untamed Beauty
The region, known historically as Kravara, is a wonderland for hikers and bikers. Kravara Park boasts over 90 km of marked trails, all color-coded and maintained by a team of local volunteers led by George Kaltsis and Dimitris of Ta Petrina. The Kravara Bike Park alone includes 30 km of trails, with varying difficulty levels, ramps, and downhill paths. It even features a bike shuttle for those aiming to reach high-altitude trails with ease.
Each year, the Nafpaktia Mountain Cycling Races bring the trails to life in late August, creating a festive atmosphere for athletes and spectators alike.
Where to Stay in Ano Chora
Ano Chora is small in size, yet it features several excellent accommodation options, perfect for a memorable weekend getaway.
Crystal Mountain Hotel:
Founded in the early 1990s, Crystal Mountain Hotel is a serene alpine retreat and a symbol of village revitalization. The village was in decline when Giorgos Papaioannidis returned to Ano Chora from the United States in the late 1980s. His vision—establishing a guesthouse that would spark local regeneration—paved the way for a new chapter in mountain hospitality.
What began as a 10-room guesthouse soon evolved into a full-scale hotel, catalyzing infrastructure development in the area. Electricity, roads, and water systems followed, reinvigorating the community. Today, the hotel offers 50 rooms furnished in warm, earthy tones, and a full range of amenities including an outdoor pool, gym, basketball court, children’s playground, pump track, and a traditional chapel nestled in the woods.
The hotel features an elegant “Koryfes” restaurant, where traditional mountain recipes are refined with a modern touch. Breakfast includes local seasonal fruit, homemade marmalades, fluffy cakes, and freshly cooked omelets. During our visit, we enjoyed a memorable dinner featuring delicious pies, refreshing salads, and pappardelle with mushrooms and beef—all beautifully prepared using fresh ingredients sourced from nearby farms and gardens.
The hotel also curates immersive experiences such as hiking excursions, waterfall swims, folklore museum tours, mushroom foraging, and autumn chestnut harvests. It is a hub for Kravara Park, developed in partnership with Ta Petrina Guesthouse, extending access to over 90 km of trails.
Under the leadership of Andreas Papaioannidis, the founder’s grandson, Crystal Mountain continues to evolve while honoring its roots. Its name—”Crystal”—was inspired by Giorgos’ restaurants in America and remains a tribute to his enduring dream.
Ta Petrina Guesthouse:
Tucked into the heart of Ano Chora, Ta Petrina Guesthouse is more than a place to stay—it’s a reflection of its host’s vision for authentic mountain living. Run by Dimitris Papadimitriou, a former radiation physicist who returned to his ancestral village in search of a quieter, more meaningful life, the guesthouse is infused with his warmth, curiosity, and passion for hospitality.
Set against the backdrop of lush fir forests, the property features a range of cozy, stone-built accommodations, including double rooms, one-room residences, and two-room maisonettes, ideal for couples, families, and groups. Guests enjoy access to two private parking areas, a café-bar named “Neraidopigi” (meaning “Fairy Spring”), a recreation space, a children’s playground, an outdoor fireplace, and even outdoor activities like archery, bike rentals, and local trail guidance.
Dimitris is deeply involved in every detail—whether lighting a fire in your room, preparing a homemade breakfast, or offering a glass of tsipouro over stories of village life. His thoughtful presence transforms a stay into a heartfelt experience.
As a co-creator of the Kravara Park trail network, Ta Petrina also serves as a hub for hikers and mountain bikers, providing trail maps, shuttle coordination, and gear storage. It’s the kind of place where modern comforts blend seamlessly with old-world charm, inviting you to unplug and reconnect with the essence of mountain Greece.
A Taste of the Mountains: Dining in Ano Chora
Food in Ano Chora is a celebration of the land—hearty, honest, and bursting with seasonal flavor. For lunch, we gathered at Oreades, which is run by Panagiotis and Sotiria.
One of the standout dishes we enjoyed during our stay was the macaroni pie—a comforting, home-baked specialty layered with thick pasta and creamy béchamel and baked to golden perfection.
Equally memorable were the grilled lamb chops, charred just right and seasoned simply with mountain oregano and coarse salt. The slow-cooked lamb, melting off the bone, carried the deep, earthy flavors of the region. But the best part was the company and the heart-warming laughs that we shared.
Final Thoughts
This journey reminded me that Greece’s true magic isn’t always found on a beach. Sometimes, it’s in the quiet of a forest trail, the warmth of a village story, or the delicate petals of an orchid in bloom.
Watch the whole weekend experience on YouTube
Sincere thanks to Aetoliki Development Company and AMKE “Parte ta Vouna” for this unforgettable invitation and experience. All opinions expressed are always my own.
